17/9/2014 0 Comments Day 21 to 26 The CaminoDay 21 Aug 21 Sarria to Hospital da Cruz
Started walking 6:30 am finished 3:45 pm. We were a bit cold last night in the tent but at least it was quite, except lots of dogs was barking had really good sleep considering. We walked really brisk 2 km to Sarria, thought we would have breakfast there, but did not find any shop open we ended up keeping going to Brea approx. 15 km walk, it was a lot of people here, the guy servicing us were upset that we did not ask for breakfast in Spanish but ok. Today it was very foggy all morning till after 10:30am before the sun came out, because of that we could not see much of the landscape, but sure it would have been much the same as the last few days, nice hilly and lots of cows. Quite amassing with the amount of people on the track this morning, it seem to be lots of new people just started the walk to Santiago especially at the 120 km area. Because we are actually now just over 100km from our goal, at the end of the day we don't know where all these people have gone because they are not in the Albergue, even they are mostly booked out maybe they stay in hotels??. At about midday we end up in Portomarin they sun is out and it's a very beautiful little town with a beautiful bridge, we have lunch here and end up meeting Eva and Andre, as usual we shop at supermarket for lunch bread roll ham cheese tomato 2 apples 3.20 euro, Svend likes it, not sure if he want to admit. Ha-ha ?? In the afternoon we stop after about 8 km to decided where we have to stop for the night, We decided to go on to Hospital da Cruz, we got here ok, to be honest it was a hard last 2 km we are having dinner next door with Andre Eva Svend Marek and an other German lady about 50 she really annoy me saying things which does not really is to my liking, I’m asking her to mind her own business, she get the message, then I talk to Marek about Auchwich his great mother was killed there in 1943 and her brother was executed in Berlin. The German lady next to me is very quite. Svend is trying to be nice to her I really look forward to Helen meeting all the people I have walked with on. Note: Were very tied late this afternoon, the last 3 to 4 km my toes have started to hurt again but it's only 3 days left tomorrow, they are planning 40 km plus per day, and the love of my life Helen is 3 days ahead of me. Towns we walked through today: Sarria. Barbadelo. Rente. Brea. Ferreiros. Rozas. Vilacha. Portomarin. Gonzar. Castromaior. Hospital da Cruz Day 22 Aug 22 Hospital da Cruz to Ribadiso da Baixo 39 km Started walking 6:00 am finished 3:45 pm. A great day on the Camino got up 5:45 am, ready quickly to walk, left 6:00 am sharp Andree Eva Svend, it was dark the first hour, thank god Eva and Andree had their headlight it was ok the first 30 min, but then we walked on small tracks with large rocks which is very unsafe to walk on in the dark. The sunrise was about 7 am which was beautiful, it was good to get away early since we planned a 39 km day The walk was quite good with much of the same rolling hills as the last few days and most of the walk was on smaller tracks and dirt roads still lot’s of cows but also sunflower and cornfields. We stopped quite a few times after 6 km for breakfast then about an other 12 km for morning tea and midday for lunch at 28 km, only 11 km to go. Eva decided to leave after 10 min lunch to try to get is 4 beds in the same Albergue Svend Andree and I had a 30 min break for lunch in Melide, I shopped lunch in supermarket 5.36 euro Svend and I often do that lots of food juice and an apple each. I thought it would be harder then it was, it seem like the feet are getting use to the 30 plus km a day It's amassing it's only 39km left to Santiago, we could easy do it tomorrow but will stop after 29 km and leave the last 10 km to Sunday morning, then hopefully my wife Helen will be there, and we will all have a nice dinner for Svend's 71st birthday with the Italian crew. Then go on to Finisterre on Monday and be there on Wednesday or Thursday. It seems like Eva think it will take 3 days to Finisterre anyway we will see Wow it seem to all come to an end. Towns we walked through today: Hospital da Cruz. Vent as de Naron. Lingode. Eireixe. Avesnostres. Palsa do Rei. Casanova. Leboieredo. Furelos. Melide. Bonete. Castaneda. Rinadiso de Baixo. Day 23 Aug 23 Ribadiso da Baixo to Monte del Gozo 37.1km plus 4.4 km total 41.5 km Started walking 6:20 am finished 3:45 pm. AND Started walking 10:30 pm finished walking 11:30 pm Wow I just by 2 clicks deleted all my 10000s of word in my dairy from today so I will start again in a shorter version ha-ha NOT The day has been a surprise in many ways. I though it would have been quite an ugly walk into the town of Santiago with industrial buildings and busy roads, to my surprise all our walk today have been very nice except a few short areas. We started in farmland then forest both old growth and new planted pine forest lots of the walk was on small nice tracks though the cavity of the forest, some had shade some did not also though it would be quite flat, but no it was quite hilly with some step hills to climb and some steep descents after which is very hard for our feet. We had planned a 29 km day so quite easy. Where we stayed at Ribadiso da Baixo was a very nice old Albergue and we were lucky getting an upstairs room with just 12 nice people so we got to sleep quite early 10 pm, even I did not sleep for a while because my feet not wanting to stop ha-ha So was hopping we would not start before 7:00pm the sunrise is not before 7:15am. But somehow we go up at 5:45 and ready to go at 6:20am, meaning we walked in the dark the first hour. It also meant we actually got a great sunrise so all good, We, the 4 amigos Andree Svend Eva and I walked together, We stopped after 1 hour for coffee and toast then again in Alto de Santa Irene for just coffee and lunch between Arca and Lavacolla at this stage Andree were no longer with us, he may have walked past without seeing us but it was only 4 to 5 km to our final destination for the day. I'm not sure what happen after we had lunch and the last few km but Evan and Svend took of, I could not follow my feet hurt and I knew it would only be 5 km and we would be there and then it would only be less then 10 km for tomorrow. Well when I got to Lavacolla there were no Albergue to be seen and no Eva and Svend, I looked more then 40 min asked the locals, who said Albergue go an other 5 km out of town towards Santiago. I took my shoes of for a while and got ready for 5 more km, I walked about 3 km an Albergue there had Wi-Fi, I called Svend who said they saw me back in the town taking photos of the church (why the hell could they not have yelled out or at least indicated they were there, I think they feel stupid) Anyway I keep walking slowly hoping they maybe was behind, I could not just stop I needed a place to stay I finally get to Monte del Gozo. 4.4 km from the Cathedral in Santiago, I called Svend when I got Wi-Fi and he told me they were on their way to Santiago. Well done mate thank you I remember how upset he was when I tried to get an Albergue 1 weeks ago and we looked for each other for 20 min when he said I had said before the start one dream one team. Ha-ha its ok I really am happy to be here and Svend has become a person now who can easy take care of himself, its all good This is written a few days later: What a twist to our day, I met Andree and Julian from the Italian / Spanish crew when I checked in, we got the same room they offered to make dinner with the other guys. I went shopping with them bought a 1-liter beer and they did not start cooking before 8pm I now had rang Helen and she had arrived in La Caruna and needed to wait till 9pm to get a bus into town to see if she could get to Santiago tonight. I lighthearted said I would meet her in Santiago. Helen was quite upset did not really know what to do, stay in La Caruna or try to come to Santiago the connection on Skype was not very good. I was running from the kitchen area where dinner was being cooked and eaten to the cafeteria where I had Wi-Fi and could talk with Helen at least 5 times (it was at least 200meters a very steep hill and stairs) and also help cook dinner with the Italian crew. We finally did get to eat our dinner at 9:30pm, at 10:20 pm I spoke with Helen and she was on the train to Santiago, would be there in less the 30 min wow wow, quickly I told all the others guys I had been with now for 6 hours, I was walking my last peregrino walk to Santiago now 10:30 pm to 11:30 pm they did not know I was meeting Helen and thought I was crazy. I walked very fast ( 4.5km ) stopped at some stage to get Wi-Fi to call Helen but no connection, about 11:30pm. I by chance run into Tobias from Germany just as I entered to Cathedral area great to see him again. When I entered the Cathedral area a few minutes later I saw this beautiful shadow about 40 meters away the light shining a little from behind. It was me lovely wife Helen who had come all the way from the UK to see me in Spain it was absolutely wonderful we spend over a hour to try to find a place to stay everything was booked we finally found a wonderful hotel about 1 km from the Cathedral, we managed to get a coffee and a croissant at about 1:00am What a day, the best day on the Camino Towns we walked though today: Ribadiso da Baixo. Arsua. Salceda. Alto de Santa Irene. Rua. Arca. Lavacolla. San Marcos. Monte del Gozo. to Santiago Day 24 Aug 24 Santiago all day Started walking 8:00 am 1 km to the Cathedral What a day Helen and I walked to the Cathedral together hand in hand it was a really fantastic feeling to have Helen here, I know she did not walk the 775 km but still great to show her Santiago and make her having the feeling of meeting some of the amazing people I have met on our walk over the last 23 days as it happen the combined Italian crew and the Spanish people walked to the Cathedral square with us at the same time about 8:15am, we took a few photos and went to the pilgrim office to get our last certificate here we met Svend, we only queued for 15 min before we got our stamp and certificate, great we made it Had breakfast with Eva Svend, went back to Albergue and place where Svend and Eva stayed and booked Svend's tickle to Denmark for Thursday Aug 28 3:50 pm. He will fly to Malaga then to Billund. We went to mass at 11:00 am for the midday mass, lots of people but Helen and I got a great seat Helen and I had a walk through the city of Santiago had lunch and went back to our " hotel " and had a 1 hour sleep. Had an other look through the city, met Svend Eva and Raphealle at 6:15pm waited for the Italian crew and the Spanish peon till 7:15pm. They did not turn up. We went for dinner at a great place had a pilgrim dinner for 10.80 euro Svend ordered Irish coffee Julian Andre and Enrico turned up they had dinner and quite a few beers more Irish coffee. We had a great time before we went back to our hotel at about 10:30pm Great day and Helen were with us. We actually celebrated Svend 71 birthday that is tomorrow Day 25 Aug 25 Santiago to Maronas 43km Started walking 7:50 am finished 5:10pm We woke at 7:10 Eva had a cold and decided not to walk to Fisterra so Svend and I got ready to take of on the 90 km walk, Andre had left yesterday, we were expected to do 21 km or maybe 34 km, the weather was overcast, not raining yet, so after a great breakfast at the Albergue next door we left at 7:50 am. Really it was a good escape from a quite big city only a few km and we were out of town in great bushy areas, we really did well most of the walk for the next 3 to 4 hours, it was in nice forest areas on small tracks through the forest we got to some really hilly areas where it took a lot of effort to get over the hills at some stage we had at least 3 km where it just went up and up, the 21 km came up at about midday, we had lunch as usual from a supermarket with a great coffee from a restaurant. We walked on to the 35 km mark, found a public Albergue with no people at all, at this stage it had been raining a bit for 3 hours, we looked at the options and decided to call an Albergue in Maronas We booked 2 beds and kept walking in the rain for about 7 km ended up doing 43 km, had a large beer some nuts a shower a sleep and a great dinner at 7:15 pm the Albergue was full about 12 people Will have breakfast tomorrow at about 7 am. All good about 47 km to go to Fisterra It is Svend’s 71st birthday today happy birthday. Spoke to Helen she is out for dinner with Eva in Santiago will maybe see them tomorrow It is raining quite heavily now and all night Towns we walked through today: Day 26 Aug 26 Maronas to Fisterra then to Faro de Fisterra and back to Fisterra at least 51km Started walking 7:45 am finished 8:10pm Wow it was the hardest physical and mental day I remember in my life We had a real problem with an Italian guy getting up at 5:30 am, waking up all people around him at 6:15 am it got too much for me I got up and asked what his problem was, apparently he was upset that some people had snored all night so he did not sleep and now it was payback time, I really understand how wars starts. Anyway we got up but breakfast was not before 7:00am and sunrise 7:52 am it was raining a lot and very windy, it was absolutely horrible we had 47 km to Fisterra light house and 3 km back to Fisterra. Over 50 km all up if we wanted to finish today or we could do half today and half tomorrow. It was even meant to be a nice walk along the coast line some of the way at least the last 15 km Well after breakfast about 7:45 am we covered up as good as possible and set off on the most trying and horrible walk I have been on as long as I remember. Svend had made some gaiters of plastic bags for his boots which worked quite well had his rain cover over himself and backpack which at least kept his top body dry. But after a little while his boots and bottom body was wet right through. For myself it was a lot worse, I knew my boots was not waterproof because they were broken, but worse and lot worse my rain jacket was not waterproof at all, when it came to rain and wind like this and I only had a thin t-shirt undies and my shorts with the wind and rain coming down I was 100% wet within a very short while and very very cold. We just walked and walked really none stop to 2:15 pm to a town called Cee, where we planned to maybe stop for the night, we had also talked about going right through to Fisterra. We had lunch in a burger place was dripping with water all over it was quite funny really. We got a little warmed up and decided to go on to Fisterra it was still raining but as we got closer to our final destination it actually stopped raining, must say we did not see much of the beautiful coast line which should have been so nice to walk along, took a few photos anyway ha-ha We had spoken a few times to Eva Helen in Fisterra and they had reserved a room for us at an Albergue. We finally found them at about 5 pm walked to the final Camino office got the last stamp and certificate that we had completed The Way The Camino, great feeling Svend did not want to walk to the lighthouse today. I walked with Andre the German guy and my lovely wife Helen the 3 km there and 3 km back to Fisterra must say it was quite foggy but a great feeling walking there with Helen a little sad that Svend was not there. Andre Helen and I did the photos and had a little ceremony burning my t-shirt and some of Andre’s cloth. We got back at about 8:15pm over 51 km for the day Got boots of shower and we had a lovely dinner with Eva Andre Svend Helen and myself
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17/9/2014 0 Comments Day 16 to 20 The CaminoDay 16 Aug 16 Villar de Mazarife to Murias de Rechivaldo
35.2 Km Started walking 7:10 am finished 4:15 pm It's been a good day, walk through lots of little villages mainly on gravel roads away from the main roads, lot’s of the tracks or roads we walked on were very hard to walk on big stones all over 5 to 10 cm diameter, so had to be very careful not to twist angle and it has now become a bit up and down so harder to move fast. We walked for 2 hours before first stop, Andre from Germany and Eva from Sweden is there too, we talk about to stop at Murias de Rechivaldo which is about 36 km, we just don't know for sure yet, our feet are not very good we loose Eva and Andre here and meet Big Ben in the next town with 2 girls from the US, he wants to get rid of them ha-ha and join Svend and Svend (us) we walk together about 10 km, have lot’s of talk about Schneider and IT. Ben is IT person. We loose Ben and have lunch 4 km before Arstroga, it's now 2pm very hot and we still have 8 km to go, I changed bandages and we get on with it, its very hard going but we get to Arstroga, must say Arstroga is a beautiful town with some nice historic buildings, we are both happy when we finally arrive. We had a fantastic breakfast in our Albergue in San Antonio all you could ask for, also the dinner last night was really good. The lady at the Albergue in San Antonio put some crème and bandages on my little toes, I slept with them and she wanted me to walk with them today, well I slept with them but could not walk with them, not enough space in the shoes, must say I was amassed how great my small toes looked this morning ha-ha) it was very hard to get going but after 1 hour it was not too bad Towns we walked through today: Villa de Mazarife. Hospital de Orbigo. Villares de Orbigo. Santibanez de Valdeiglesias. San Justo de la Vega. Astorga. Murias de Rechivaldo Day 17 Aug 17 Murias de Rechivaldo to 32.6 Km Started walking 6:10 am finished 3:15 pm Another day on The Way in Paradise. Woke early 5:45 am there where no breakfast here before 6:30 am so we decided to go early, the first about 19km was quite straight and easy walk even now it's much nicer to walk then the in the past days we are walking away from traffic roads and through some beautiful villages, some of them seem to be deserted and the houses does not look that great, the old houses are mainly build of natural stones so only the roofs falls down the walls will stand for a long time. After 19 km it's becomes much more a bush walk through little tracks and very much up and down we started this morning at 900 meters go to 1500 meters and come back very steeply to 1000 meters also it has been a very warm day with no wind at all, strange to see the 100’s of windmills on the mountain ridges not moving at all, so quite a challenging day BUT GREAT Stopped a few times today: for coffee after 1 hour, morning tea 2 hours after that, and lunch 1 hour after that, we also had a little coffee break before the big downhill about 1:45 pm Had a pretty good day got bandages on ok, and it only took me 30min before most pains had gone this morning, changed 1 bandage at 11am and socks. Usually I change socks, to the thin ones in the afternoon, it seem like my feet have got bigger in the afternoon. Still last night I had big problems sleeping it seen like the feet keep working, but I think the magnesium have helped a bit. We are out of cream now; I will try to buy some stuff on my own tomorrow I talk very briefly the my wife my love my life don't have a chance to call back she seem to be ok I got a message from her Towns we walked through today: Murias de Rechivaldo. Santa Catalina de Samoza. El Ganso. Crux de Ferro. Manjarin. El Acebo Day 18 Aug 18 El Acebo to Cacabelos 31.3Km Started walking 6:30 am finished 2:30 pm. An other day in the fantastic world we live in and do all we can to damage it. First I must note, we had a really nice sunset last night with the cross on top of our hill and the sun setting over the mountains behind, I had a coffee and a smoke with Eva from Sweden The walk today was downhill the first approx. 7 km very steep on little tracks through the bush I was in really good shape and was kind of slowly running some of the way not to hurt my feet too much, after the 7 km it became like urban area for a very long time about 18 km, the main town was called Ponferrada quite nice with churches and old Spanish buildings but boring after a while. In the morning today it was not cold at all, in the afternoon it became very hot and must say the last 6 km was very though. The landscape today has gone from really nice mountains to urban town like area the town Ponferrada have about 65000 people. The Albergue church we stayed at last night was donations, we got a bed, evening meal and breakfast We stay in a church Albergue today as well the cost is 5 euro it’s 2 people to a room very basic but ok. I had a shower washed cloth and tried to sleep, but to many flies, I really have problems with my feet again, they just seem to not settle down, Eva give me a foot massage it was absolutely fantastic. We the 4 amigos now go out for dinner Svend Svend Andree and Eva. Hopefully I will be able to walk tomorrow, we have planned about 32 km Towns we walked through today: El Acebo. Diego de Ambros. Molinaseca. Campo. Ponferrada. Columbrianos. Fuentes Nuevas. Camponaraya. Cacabelos. Day 19 Aug 19 Cacabelos to Alto do Poio 45.8 km ( plus at least 3 km wrong = 48.8 km ) Started walking 6:05 am finished 6:25 pm. Hi we and I are still alive, how great is that???? It was an early start to what became quite a special day The first hour was in the dark along a road out of Cacabelos, after about an hour we turned right and it became more gravel roads we started going in to more hilly area with cows in the fields we stopped for a bit of breakfast in Villafranca after about 1,5 hour, we were doing really well and I started to wonder if the km was right after the maps (it was not after 3 hours we had walked 19 km which was not right). Eva and the others though it was right. I knew we was planning a 40 km day tomorrow so I suggested to keep going to at least La Laguna de Castilla but there were no takers. I really walked most of the time on my own today anyway needed some space. Anyway we started getting in to the real hills from 600meter going up to nearly 1300 meters, La Faba is at 900 meters, we got there at about 2:45pm I got there last. I broke the news that I wanted to go on at least an other 10 Km, said I felt it would be to much for tomorrow they reluctantly accepted and I freely walked on. Took some wonderful photos of the village La Faba first. Must admit it got very hard walking, but it was nice to be on my own so I could walk in the speed I wanted, it was a beautiful walk through wonderful villages and at the nearly top I met Andrea and Julian the 2 Italian guys, I stopped and had a banana with them, they wanted me to stay it was space in the Albergue but only 5.5 km from where I had left the other guys I wanted an other 5 km, again the small villages here are all milking cow country, so lots of cow poo on the road and very beautiful when I arrive at 5:45 pm at Hospital de Condesa it was full, so I had to walk an other 3 km, did not get there before 6:35pm It was a long beautiful walk but also very hard Got an Albergue here, a wonderful shower, some meat and potato for dinner got my phone charged a bit from some German people Towns we walked through today: Cacabelos. Villagranca del Bierzo. Trabadelo. La Portela. Ambasmestas. Vega de Valcarcel. Ruitelan. Las Herrerias. La Faba. La Laguna. O Cebreiro. Linares. Hospital de la Condesas. Alto do Poio Day 20 Aug 20 Alto do Poio to Sarria. 30.7 km Started walking 8:04 am finished 3:30 pm. It has been a day with fantastic landscape very hilly and lots of small villages with lots of cows 95% of the time have been walking on little tracks or very small dirt road with lots of cow poo. I started at one of the highest points on the last leg of the Camino about 1300 meter, It went downhill for the first few hours to about 700 meter then up again to about 900 meters. We planned to meet at Calbor since I was quite a bit in front of Svend Eva and Andre When I came to Calbor it was quite a away from any restaurants and shops, I went on an other 2 km they only had 3 beds so ended up at a camping ground with 2 Amy tents with 7 beds in each I reserved 4 beds and booked in at about 3:30 pm, washed clothes had shower and gave my feet a good massage, Svend and the others arrived at about 5:30 pm Eva and Andre continued 1.5 km to Sarria to an Albergue, Svend stays here it's different but ok the others have done 43 km today I'm glad I did the extra km yesterday it has made it quite easy to get here today. Svend is talking about doing the last 113km over the next 3 days so we may be in Santiago Aug 23 I just rang Helen to try to get her here by then, haven't told yet to anybody she maybe coming. Svend and I will go for dinner across the road for Camino dinner 8,50 euro, to stay at the camping ground is 7 euro Town we walked through today: Alto do Poio. Fonfria. Viduedo. Triacastela. San Xil. Calvor. Samos. To near Sarria. Me me me: Great to talk with Helen last night but still glad I have been on my own to last 27 hours plus the time I had yesterday I seem to have cleaned up some stuff. I had breakfast at the place I stayed at 2,50 euro had morning tea at Triacastela toast and coffee got phone charged and had lunch near Samos. Hope the next week will be fantastic, Helen is coming and we finish the Camino 15/9/2014 0 Comments Day 11 to 15 on The CaminoDay 11 Aug 11 Hortanas to Poblacion de Campos
38.4km Started walking 5:45 am finished about 4:30pm It was a long day most of the time we walked on smaller gravel roads, some was small earth tracks and some concrete roads, landscape quite hilly few step hills 12 and 18 %. I had to walk backwards on the ones going down just too much pain in my toes. Most of the field are harvested and have been barley wheat or corn, there are still quite a few sunflower fields, which is not ready for harvesting yet. We also have the pleasure to walk along some canals into Poblacion de Campos it was very nice also because there were some trees for shade it was a very warm afternoon. Most say this morning was quite cold lots of walkers had extra cloth on till about 10 am. I did not put my on till 9am I was just in too much pain the first 2 hours, it was quite nice 24 degree maybe till about 12 noon and it got really hot in the afternoon, sure more then 30 degree. Svend had the idea we should do about 35 km, I really did not know how to do it with my toe problem also that would mean doing 37km tomorrow because there is no village for the last 17.8 km tomorrow The first 2 hours today was very painful sometimes when I looked at the road I felt I was just falling over in pain and lots of thought went though my head, how to fulfill this walk and still enjoy it, I can't walk in my thongs now, it’s all dirt road and open wound would not be good, maybe if I could find an old pair of shoes a few numbers too big, Svend sandals will not work (I tried) will rub on my toes. I want to enjoy the walk, what can I do. We stop after 10 km 2,5 hours very slow have coffee and chocolate croissant I do not take shoes of. It's better now seem like the pain have gone a bit we walk 11km and about 11:15 am we stop for lunch I still do not take shoes of, sleep on the outside concrete floor for 20 min with legs up on a chair we walk 9km, could stay here for the night, nice place lots of people I have mars bar coffee and we go on in the heat 6 km, Svend think it here we stay for the night, but I have other plans and suggest an other 4 km to where we are now all up 38.4 km, now we will have about 32km tomorrow that is if I can get going ?????? Svend don't understand how I get this energy in the afternoon?? Must say he was just finished when we got here, have now got blisters under one of his little toes and the next toe Towns walked through today : Hontanas Convento de San Anton Castrojeriz. Puente Fitero. Otero la Vega Boadillo del Camino. Fromista. Poblacion de Campos Day 12 Aug 12 Poblacion de Campos to Calzadilla de la Cueza 32.6 km. (half way to Santiago de Compostella 387.9 km) Started walking 7:05 am finished about 3:40 pm Again what a day, got up 6:15 am after a horrible night sleep with the noise from a few walkers and a terrible pain in left little toe. Anyway we had our breakfast sorted our bandages and left at 7:05am not too bad this morning to get going only really heavy pain for about half an hour and it start getting a bit better, the last 17.8 km today was hell just straight gravel road lots of pain and only 1 stop at the side of the road where we had a bit to eat from the previous town, glad we got here to this brand new albergue and so far not too many people so maybe we can get a good sleep, I chose a bed in the very far corner of the sleeping room lets hope it will be quite. Today's walk was really ok not much to write about very straight in farm areas we can see the soil is not so good anymore but they still grow barley wheat and sunflowers, most of it have been harvested and the farmers have started cultivating. Our walk is mainly on gravel tracks and roads but very straight it's ok still a great feeling of just walking to nowhere, and still knowing you get somewhere, because we know after today's walk is concluded we have walked half way to Santiago de Compostella, have only walked 12 days at this stage, a long time ago I was thinking it could be great to arrive in Santiago de Compostella on Svend's birthday Aug 25, but we still have a long way to go, our feet are hurting, in our heads and the rest of our bodies we are ok. We are meeting some really interesting people and for Svend and I it seems to be new people every 3 to 4 days. We seem to walk a bit longer then most (average so far 32.5km per day, most people do maybe 24 to 30km per day) The last few days we have met Big Ben from California again 34 years old, fast walker when he walks and think a lot about himself but quite nice to talk to a few times a day. We also have talked to a girl from Slovenia she is walking for about 8 days never done this before, quite young would say 28 are purchasing person in a steal company and just want to walk for a few days. Then it's the German guy we have seen and talked with him maybe a week ago. The town we are in only have a few houses and this Albergue, which is new so the only place to eat is the hotel 200 meter away Towns walked through today: Poblacion de Campos. Revenga de Compos. Vil lamented ode Campos. Villalcazar de Sirga. Calzadilla de Los Condes. Calzadilla de la Cueza Day 13 Aug 13 Calzadilla de la Cueza to Bercianos 32.4 km Started walking 6:33 am finished about 4:30pm The way the walk today was very flat and mainly through landscape with farm fields still harvested wheat and barley fields with cultivated fields lots of the walk are on gravel tracks next to bitumen roads. It's quite cold this morning up till about 11am even the sun comes out it’s like the weather pattern have changed a bit We walk 13 km before our first coffee and croissant stop. Then 10 km to where we have lunch, shop at supermarket and eat at coffee shop where we get a great Americano coffee. We decided to do 10 km more which end up taking me over 3 hours, but we are now in a very nice old refuge it use to be a priest 's home, very old house which have been converted to this wonderful albergue for pilgrims it's payment by donations and dinner is at 8 pm with reflection time after that. Regarding my condition it's not good had a terrible 6 hours with constant pain after lunch I put new bandage on, that helped a lot but must have walked in wrong position all morning so I'm hurting in hips and knees also my shoes no longer have inlays, because my feet are too big, so it’s like walking on very hard surface all the time But life goes on and let's prey tonight that tomorrow will be better then today. Regarding our sleep last night. It was fantastic think we got 6 hours sleep with no party or silly loud people We met up with the Italian crew; they stayed at the Albergue next door. We played pig with Big Ben Andre from Italy. Svend and I. Andre won good fun Towns we walked through today: Calzadilla de la Cueza. Teradillos de Templarios. Moratinos. San Nicolas del real Camino. Sahagun. Calzada del Coto. Bercianos. Day 14 Aug 14 Bercianos to Arcahueja 8 km before Leon 36.9 km Started walking 6:50 am finished about 4:15 pm Woke up at 6:10am breakfast is not ready before till 6:30am. I try to make sure my bandage is on perfectly. Feet hurt so much last night I could not sleep till after 1:30am. Took 2 headache pills just after midnight which must have settled down to pain Great breakfast and the walk starts really well and all day I have very little pain 3 out of 10. We have a rest after 1,5 hour for 15 min then again at about 11:50am have lunch relax for 50 min we have done 22 km so far we decide to walk to about 32 km but end up going to the next town and the last town before Leon (which is a big city) so all up today 36.9 km. Long but great day the weather has been great little windy and chilly in the morning. All the walk again today have been much the same as the last 3 days on gravel roads next or not far away from large bitumen road with quite a bit of traffic very flat but at least a few towns now and then except one stretch it was 13 km between any house and town and that is a long way, it means 3 hours of walking, the other day we had 4 hours or 17.8 km. that is honestly a long way when you walk. Svend got some cash out of ATM at about 1pm and now know the ATM it's working. He suggest when we find our albergue to take a taxi in to Leon see the town and have dinner there I think it's a great idea but ask to wait with commitment till we get to our albergue. We get to albergue at 4:15 pm have shower wash cloth have 20 min sleep. I'm not up to going to town and tells Svend I want stay back at the albergue where it's only 10 beds, my feet need a rest and I want to talk with Helen on Skype. He says he want to go himself, I tell him I'm really happy that he does go. He then gets a bit a shitty says I'm boring and I better stay home to talk to my wife. I tell him he better go and there will be no excuses anymore why I don't want to go and just remember we are not married. Thank god I finally show I'm 58 and have my own meaning. I sitting here in the sun drying my toilet bag getting warm and letting my feet recover from 37 km walk Towns we walked through today: Bercianos. El Burgo Ranero. Reliegos. Mansilla de las Mulas. Villamarcos. Puenta de Villarente. Arcahueja Day 15 Aug 15 Arcahueja to Villar de Mazarife 29.4 Km Started walking 7:10 am finished about 4:15 pm The 8 km to Leon was quite an easy walk not as boring as the into Burgos walk the cathedral did not open before 9:30 so we have coffee and a bit to eat before I go to see this beautiful Cathedral it's smaller then Burgos, but build in a very simple way compared to its age about 1250 AD it took only 50 years to complete, even it has been restored a few times, it has over 1800m2 of lead light glass which is absolutely amazing. Left Leon about 10:30am we were planning on about 28 km today. We decided to do a nicer but 6 km longer route, which go through some small towns instead of along the main road. It was hard going and quite hot. Must say its much nicer to walk through fields and smaller roads then where we can hear the cars and trucks all the time, it's become a little more variety in the landscape a bit more hilly smaller fields and some time a herder on his donkey driving his sheep along the fields with his 2 or 3 sheepdogs We end up meeting up with Eva from Sweden Andree from Germany also we meet the new lady Claire from Cornwell she has done about 140km of the Camino over the last 6 or 7 years. 2 weeks at the time. My feet hurt a lot today especially this morning not sure what to do it really is painful. But then again yesterday was not too bad it's 289 km left to Santiago and 380 km to the coast Anyway we end up at Albergue it’s very nice and 21euro for bed dinner breakfast. Towns we walked through today: Arcahueja. Valdelafuente. Leon. La Virgen del Camino. Oncina de la Valdoncina. Cholas de Abajo. Villar de Mazarife 15/9/2014 0 Comments Day 0/1 to 5 the CaminoDay 0 July 31 Tonder to Saint Jean Pied de Port
Start 5:30 am quick breakfast pack last bits and go to pick up Olivia who drove with us to Billund airport, she will then take Svend’s car back to Tonder We had plenty of time in Billund to get the last things sorted; the flight was 30 min late. I Carcarsonne France We got our Herzt rental car and ready to go about 2 pm. Ho Ho Ho here we go, I managed to get the rental flexible so we could leave the car in Bayonne or further on to the coastal area. 4 hours drive and we were in Bayonne with a few stops for food and coffee to be honest I was quite tire, my mate Svend had a few sleeps in the car haha. In Bayonne we were told there was a train to Saint Jean Pied De Port about 3 km walk to the train station, of we went to the train station about 7 pm, next and last train / bus combined would leave at 9:10pm. All good we had time for dinner and 2 beers, also have a look around Bayonne a great town with a big river and lots of old beautiful old France buildings great atmosphere, the weather is great, where we will sleep in Saint Jean Pied de Port is still a question, the time is 10pm and we are on the bus still 30 min before we arrive. Arrived at 10:30pm walk with about 30 others, walk through this wonderful old town cobbled stones and lots of old buildings with narrow and steep streets. Svend is quite concerned that we get a place to sleep, I ask in a few hotels and get prices 90 to 80 euro Svend really want to get a room, it's late and all could be booked out and what will we do, I am able to convince him to relax and tell him things will work out, We find the Camino office to get our first stamp proving we are on our way, in the Camino they are trying to get rooms for an other 15 people and about 11:30 pm they managed to open a floor in a hostel and about 12 of us move in one big room, mattress on the floor include breakfast 5 Euro, Svend is all smile don't know how all this came about. We get a shower and go to sleep about midnight with about 8 people in our room. Day 1 aug 1 Saint jean pied de port to Roncesvalle 27km ( 30km for Svend P ) It's on, I sleep really well Svend wake me at 5:45am, and some of the guys has already gone. We pack and have great breakfast downstairs, toast jam and coffee, the very helpful guys from last night is now here serving breakfast it's all good by 6:15 am we are ready to go, we wander for 10min thought the town to get to our start of the walk Svend think he knows where it is, but don't, I end up walking back to the hostel to get the guy to show us, at some stage Svend has gone walkabout and I can't find him. Anyway by 6:45pm we are finally on our way with one of the 65-year-old volunteer’s from the hostel showing us the way. Well 27 km later (30km for me) we are in Roncesvalle it was a very hard walk uphill most of the way and to be honest with the little training I have done it's really hard, the walk is fine and the views are fantastic looking back over Saint Jean Pied de Port there are quite a few walkers on the walk, so it's not easy to go wrong the last 4 km is very steep downwards, where we are now “Roncesvalle” is a like monastery church turned in to a Camino hostel church hotel and 2 restaurants there are no shops in town at all, only above but it's really good. The mass is at 8 pm which was really interesting and a lot of peregrinos as we are called here. We have got a great hostel with hot showers the cost is 10 euro for a bed only. Lunch with beer 7 euro and pilgrim dinner 9 euro the weather has been ok really getting a bit cold in the afternoon and we have had a bit rain as well I washed a few clothes. Had a nice just over 1-hour sleep late afternoon great. We had our pilgrim dinner at one of the 3 restaurants set meal entree pasta omelet for main with salad and yogurt for desert quite good really. We attend a very nice church service at 8 pm. I was asked to do a reading in English got iPad of priest with English but did not understand my duty so in the middle of the service when he called me I had to reject, must say it was a bit embarrassing ha-ha. But Svend never worked it out, so no worries we had a look around the church after the service which is build in about 900 AD and in the same still as Notre dame Worst news is that it's cold and it's raining so we look forward to hopefully nicer weather tomorrow and it would have been nice with a sleeping bag ha-ha Day 2 Aug 2 Roncesvalle to Larrasoana 27.4km A great day up at 5:30am ready to go before anybody at 6:00am sharp, all others waiting for their boots we Svend and I had ours in our rooms. Walk with maybe 5 others in the dark for nearly 1 hour, we stop for breakfast after 1 hour in a little village, the walk is beautiful though forest and small tracks and fields it can't be better we were told it would be raining and cold and here we are a bit overcast and great walking weather, we go to Zubiri our planned overnight place 20,8 km at 11:30am we decide to go on to Larrasoana which is 5,6 km further on, we have a great lunch at Zubiri from a supermarket bread roll ham cheese and tomato. We get to Larrasoana at 1:30pm Svend seem to want to stop because of some Italian guys we have been talking to, I think Svend is quite finished but will not admit. So we stop here and end up having a good time with a lot of people we have met over the last few days, sleeping and washing a few clothes out for a drink at the local supermarket meet a lot of the people we now have spend a dew days with. One is a Swedish lady Eva age 67 which have done to Camino 7 times the same route every time. We have Camino dinner at the only local pub 12 euros with vine, it's all good we go to bed at 10pm It's still light it would be great if they changed to time 1 or 2 hours so we had some light in the morning. It has been a great day with beautiful walks my feet seem to have a problem the joint next to my big toe seem to be swollen and hurting. Goodnight Day 3 Aug 3. Larrasoana to Uterga 31.8km Zuriain An other great day with a few challenges. Got up at 5:05 am lots of activity people seem to want get going early, we got up and ready to go by 5:30 am our walk the first 45 min was in the dark with headlight but we could hear the river running quite near to us there was a few going already but we were some of the first of the marks. I was planning on about 27km but hoping on about 32km Was stopped for breakfast in the next village Zuriain Larrasoana, which were great lot of other walkers came after us, it was now light and the clouds were hanging very low but it was dry and as long it does not rain it's just fantastic the temp was also perfect for walking and by the time we got to Pamplona the sun was out and only about 7:45 am, we met a lot of other walkers and had a good talk and laugh. Pamplona is a big place not sure but maybe 50000 people, a typical Spanish town with old buildings and square, but everything was closed today it's Sunday !!! Now my personal little issue,!! Had the feeling something was going on in my shoes and at breakfast I discovered 2 blisters on the outside of my little toes, no good, I put on a little plaster on and of we went again. I Pamplona I discovered 1 more blister on the toe next to the big toe, now I pricked a hole in all of them and for the next about 8km I walked in my thongs it was great but a bit hard, half of the way was though the streets of Pamplona the rest on tracks outside the place Zariquiegui, Where planned to maybe stay, I again took my shoes of we had a beer and a bit of food and Svend left it up to me to decide if we wanted to go on over a beautiful ridge with windmills where we also would overlook Pamplona the weather was absolutely fantastic sunshine about 30 degree and clear as anything obviously I decided to go on for the next 6km very steep up for the first 3 km and then down steep to Uterga we read in the guide book it was a place with very little facility and only few beds. I got the lady to call and book 2 beds for us, When we got here is was great, a small place with about 20 beds very friendly staff outside tables and a restaurant we got a bed 10 euro and ordered dinner I wash Svend’s t shirt and my undies and my t shirt had a great long shower, operated on my blisters had a little walk though this wonderful town had a sleep for 20min outside on the sun bed while all other walkers had a rest in our large sleeping room, we are now about 30 people here, now it's 6:40 pm and everybody are here ready for dinner at 7pm. I had a beer and a chat with the other people, all people here are new to us not many have walked 32km today We had a lovely dinner with about 10 people from Hungry violinist living in UK. US Marian Olga from Poland. Eva from Sweden ME from Italy Tobias from Germany and a few others going to bed about 10pm. goodnight Day 4 Aug 4. Uterga to Estella 29 km ( 32 km ) Started walking 6:15 am finished about 2:30pm It was a mixed day, you never know what a day will bring We started early after a nice night at the hostel, it was very noisy with the thin walls between the beds but I had a great sleep. Svend had problems sleeping and complained a bit. We started walking at 6:15 am after 30 min walk in the near dark we realised we were on the wrong track and had to turn back, we did an extra 3km at least ha-ha The walk today was going through beautiful farms and also vine fields and hills with lots of quaint little villages with very few people around, the way we walk is nearly all on small tracks and through forest and fields, there were quite a few up and down hills to deal with, which is hard when your feet hurts. We meet quite a few people both of which we have met before and new people which is walking slower pace. Must say most people are younger then us. My feet hurt quite a bit and thongs is what I walked in for quite a few km, my 2 blisters on my small toes got really bad in the afternoon but I wanted to make the town if Estella, must say the last quite a few km I walked through a few pain barriers, I just took the time it took, so we were quite late arriving, the first hostel was full so an other one 5 min walk away was the place we had to go to, my body adrenalin got us there really quick and it was ok we were the first to arrive so could choose our bed in a room with about 60 people at the end of the day it was also full. I had bought some special little bandage for my blisters Had a shower gave legs and feet a great massage and some body lotion put the feet up as high as possible on the bed and had a sleep for about 1 hour Hallelujah felt really good Svend and I was ready to discover the town, the supermarket 1 km away was the target. We were told it was no dinner at the hostel and not much in town. We discovered otherwise It was a wonderful sunny afternoon about 25 degrees, we found out there were a bull run in town the next morning at 8:00 am, the street where the run was taking place we walked through, all my pain has gone from my feet and I just wanted to so the run the next morning, Svend did not think it was a good idea ha-ha, it was now about 4 pm and people had started coming out into the street in the white and red dress trousers and t-shirt I stopped a few young people and asked them what was going on over the next few days, found out there was a bull fight on at 6:30pm and the main bull stadium about 1 km from the center it really got me going, as planned we got to the supermarket got some biscuits and yogurt for breakfast the next day and 8 beers We found a nice little place in the square, to have a beer and a few biscuits the atmosphere was starting to build in town. Got tickets for the bull fight 9 euro and had a great few hours of entertainment, no bulls was hurt they only try to avoid the bulls when they attack (don’t know may the bulls are on drugs? they are very angry.) while we enjoyed a few beers and the sun came down, life could not be much better in Estella and the Camino de Santiago We now walked through town the music was playing, walking bands through the streets, people was eating, drinking and having a great time we found a place to eat and have an other few beers and met a few people from the Camino, they also seem to join in on the festivities but none wanted to run with me in the morning. Well it was a great day and evening which I wish: My dear wife my love my life was here to enjoy with me. I have met a guy a few times which I call Felix he look like Aden’s Felix it's not him I have asked him ha-ha will take a photo with him if I see him again ha-ha We got back at 10pm in bed and quite at 10:15pm. Goodnight Day 5 Aug 5 Estella to Torres del Rio 29.9km Started walking 6:15am finished about 2:00pm Considering yesterday's situation this was a good start to the day, even we got up 5:30am it took a little while to get breakfast and our bandage sorted out. Svend has got a really large blister on his right heal but got some special bandage for it We get going quite well the first few km; I put back my soul in the right shoe. (I decided to take them out after my 2 blisters and my feet have swollen and therefore the shoes are actually now really a number too small so taking the souls out I hope it will get better We again walk through some beautiful landscape hilly with very nice villages lots of vine fields We walk together and talk quite a bit with Svend and we talk to other walkers. We also have times where we really have time for our self, to go through our own thoughts I must say for myself I have had some quite emotional things to deal with and hope to get more time to go over things in my previous and future life, Close people which are no longer in this world and have played a big role in my life, surely is not forgotten on a walk like this, even through pain laughter and meeting all these wonderful people there is plenty of time to deal with things which is important to the person doing this walk. There is still quite painful times but we do our 22km before we have a rest and lunch at 10:45am not bad walking at all, we spend 1 hour here and I talk to Helen on Skype she is a bit lonely I think that's what she write to me as well. Try to convince her we could do a mountain bike trip I don't think it impresses her, well we will se what happen ha-ha After our little break for 1 hour we walk to our final destination for the day Torres del Rio about 7 km. we find a nice little hostel with maybe 40 or 50 people for 18 euro for bed dinner and breakfast best deal on town. Have shower wash undies and t shirt have a sleep and spend at least 1 hour writing diaries for yesterday to today Weather is absolutely fantastic little cold in the morning up until 10:00 am then slowly getting hotter and quite hot at 4 pm 30 degree Finish now 6 pm |
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