25/5/2017 0 Comments Our diaryNot sure why but it seems I stopped writing after I got to San Cristobal in Mexico, it will always remain a mystery!
Cuba Sydney to La to Cancun Stayed pre booked Airbnb Saul Picked us up. Very unique jungle house near to the airport, took us for drive to his yacht and had tacos in local cafe. 29/3/2017 Havana Irene's pre booked Airbnb Next morning Saul took us to airport, got Cuban visa on arrival, also checked out car rentals for Mexico. Short flight to Havana. Simple customs and arrival. Walked outside airport got a cheaper taxi by walking a little way, to pre booked Airbnb in Centro Havana. Irene's place in Perserverancia st. Taxi driver showed us the signs outside people's homes that meant they were renting out rooms. Walked around old Havana taking in the sites enjoyed the old 1950's American cars on the streets. Houses looked in ruins but some were being renovated and painted, Changed 50 euro on street as no bank open & bought a wifi card. Had ham omelette tortilla in roll for dinner In small street kiosk in house near our Casa. 30/3/2017 Havana Moved to another Casa as ours was full. But much nicer family. Irene and her sister were a bit business like but ok. Now in Concordia st 404 Still in Centro Havana.25cuc including breakfast. Walked along Malecon and to Valeda visited National Hotel a mafia play ground in the 1950's previous Casino before revolution. Also Hotel Libre became Castries headquarters after revolution but was previously Hilton hotel , university and Revolution square. Changed money 300 euros or ? 350 seem to be missing 50euro somehow. Hot and exhausted walked back. Ate pizza twice in different cafes/ house kiosks. Met uk boy Tom. Will travel to Australia overland and sea from U.K. We look forward to hearing about it when he arrives in two years! 31/3/17 Matanza Mari Sol's place Up early ate breakfast omelette bread coffee Got an old USA car taxi to bus station 5cuc Ticket to matanza 7cuc 2 hours Met off bus and taken to casa near station. Nice house friendly people. 22cuc Walked around main town all day. And again at night. In plaza a branch fell off tree and missed two girls by cm's At night we tried out Coppelias ice cream bar, a queue, short wait, shown a shared table, given a plate of strawberry ice cream. Not too much choice. But people had ten plates and filled them into containers or plastic bags to take home and also ate a plate or two. Funny experience. Kay's house being auctioned in sydney today but we have limited internet and have to sit in a park to get it. Watched the locals at night in their dance hall. Seemed v old fashioned. 1/4/17 Viazul Bus overnight Varerdero to Santiago de Cuba. Up early got a taxi to Varerdero bus station. Left our luggage, booked bus tickets then spent the day in The all inclusive resort hub, first on the beach then we got a hop on hop off bus all day. Not very nice or really Cuban and it rained all afternoon so we couldn't sit on top of bus. Bus to Santiago was very cold. Comfy enough seats but it stops a lot for breaks which was annoying. Took 17 hours. 2/4/17 Casa Consul Santiago de Cuba (122) Met off bus by Alexidis. Big black man who took us to his family house by horse cart. Big house in the very centre of the pedestrian mall. Fernery roof top terrace Old grandma wanders around in nightie. Brother is on Airbnb so I gave him some tips for his listing. Walked a lot and in evening there was a dance show with school kids in main plaza. Very good and lively with Latin music and costumes. We eat pizza and ice cream a lot, also churros with chocolate cream. Alcoholic drinks cheap. Especially mojitos the local drink. Found out on wifi that Kay's house sold at auction for $1.597 million great price. Their reserve was $1.475 and 6 serious bidders. Exchange in 6 weeks. To get wifi we have to buy a card for 1.5 cut and it gives you 1 hour. Then you find a hot zone normally in the main plaza where crowds are on their phones. Then enter numbers on your card. Works better than I expected. The touts sell the cards we can buy for 3 cut outside as normally a long queue if you don't go to Etesca early or late in day. 3/4/17 Casa Consul Santiago de Cuba (122) Spent another day in Santiago following a walking tour map in the guide book. Around old streets and to revolution buildings, motanda. Along the harbour and up to the plaza where I saw the young 15 year old girls in town debutante in ball gowns, waltz and celebrate with a cake. We also saw a Cuban music video being made in La Trova bar. 4/4/17 Baracoa Nelsys Casa Up early, great breakfast as usual, fruit, juice, coffee, bread, eggs. Walked to bus as no taxis or horse carts were around. A6 hour drive over the mountains. and we unfortunately didn't stop in Quantanamo as planned. We were told there was nothing there but we should have stayed a few hours and got next bus. Now we regret it and won't ever be going back. Met at bus by a bici taxi with our names on a card, to Nelsys place that Alexidis had booked for us. Lots of networking goes on. First impression wasn't great because of the hurricane last October, but we got a good place in centre and enjoyed our time. Had roof top terrace, could see the sea. Bars playing live music and salsa. Organised a day trip for tomorrow with a local guide and a jeep taxi for following day. At night walked along the Malecon promenade at the beach had fish and chips, piña colada and ice cream, and a v old fair ground, looked dangerous. Had music bands and a big celebration for the revolution day. With lots of pro Castro speeches from the young people. 5/4/17 Barracoa Did a jeep tour to a cocoa family ,farm, a walk and boat trip to a river with a swim and a beach. V relaxed day. Had a guide Iladgo talked a lot to me about how hopeless life was here and no hope for the future. How they celebrate the revolution 60 years ago because nothing else has happened since. Our day started with a long wait for two Israeli girls who got held up in the bank. Also with us was a girl from Belgium Sun........... We had a great day discussing our different countries and travel experiences. This area of Cuba was destroyed last October with a hurricane so lots of palms are uprooted and debris lying around. The people have rebuilt but they must repay the costs somehow later. Very lush green area v tropical compared to the west of Cuba. 6/4/17 Holguin We had booked transport to take us through some little travelled areas and rough roads to Holguin. We shared a jeep that was v dusty and picked up various locals along the way. We then transferred to an old American 1957 car the the rest of the journey once the roads got better after Moa which was a big dirty nickel mining town. Svend found a beautiful Renovated Casa on the plaza owned by on Italian. On a walk we came across a Cigar rolling factory where they roll 80 to 120 a day by hand, we could see them through open windows where they sit for 8 hours a day & earn 25cuc a MONTH, svend got two from a worker out of the window, then a man took us to his house & svend went back next day & bought box small cigars. Obviously knocked off from the factory. 7/4/17 Camaguey Bus not till late at night so took a Taxi to Los Tunas. Local crowded truck to next town rained all the way holes in roof, non efficient tarps on open windows. No transport out of town except outrageous 50 cuc taxis. Svend talked a semi trailer driver to take us to Camaguey for 20 Cuc we sat in back & hid from police, drove round and round town, dropped us off on outer edge then we got a horse cart as far as they were allowed to drive, walked in about 8pm then found a room with young girl running the place. A bit hassled in centre of town but managed to shake the touts off. Nice atmosphere despite of that. Found a restaurant that charged local prices & looked flash, and we had a full meal, beers, cocktails, lots of liquors, desert all for 10cuc 8/4/17 Camaquey Nice breakfast from the girls mum in the kitchen, the perfectly capable 18 year old girl became like a young adolescent when her mum was around, funny to see. Old Mexicany feel to old city,old cars, bici taxis, horse carts. Concert in front of church plaza dance and music with handicapped children. Svend bought some local cigars & spent time finding a plastic pipe to put them in. Meal not so good soup awful I couldn't eat it after I realised it was cold & looked like vomit. 9/4/17 Remedios Took a Viazul bus to Santa Clara then shared a taxi to Remedios with an Italian woman & Swedish woman. Stayed a couple of blocks back from the square at Rauls place, seemed to be a single man but room ok. Very quiet town with on,y one square which takes a bit of getting used to after the other towns. Quite a lot of tourists in the day though, probably on day trips from the luxury resorts near by. Ice cream bar ate at a few times, salsa danced in bar with black locals who were pretty drunk, they gave us dance lessons but we were worried about our bag with camera in etc Saw workers in Cigar factory, bought box cigars from nearby house. Found a hotel with rooftop terrace and views over city for photos. 10/4/17 Santa Clara Took a nice local bus with seat from remedios, very nice trip. Nice apt with roof top and a window overlooking a jazz/Spanish music bar next door Beard cut for 10 local money about 40c, Che Guevara monument but museum closed, horse cart home. Night time walk around old Colonial plaza came across old musicians playing Cuban music, good atmosphere, met 3 young Danes, one from Graasten. Back at our casa music played till 1am and we watched & listened from our roof top. 11/4/17 Trinidad In morning walked to Che Guevaras train wreck memorial where he took down Batistes troops & was the tipping point of the revolution, also his statue with a child. Walked back past cigar rolling factory but we could only look into the windows. Svend ended up buying 25 Cubanho from a hawker who took us to his house. 35cuc, now have about 75 cigars & we can only take in 25 each. We then took a horse cart to the Che Guevara mouseleum queued looked at the room with returned remains from Bolivia of Che & 17 others killed in Bolivia fighting some other revolution. Also small museum with photos of him. Bus station was near by & we caught a local truck bus to Trinidad, hot, crowded but I had a seat on a metal bench which I kept despite all the people & their wares, pipes, full wooden doors, vegetables, suitcases, a real experience of Cuban life. Arrived knackered to a very Touristy,hot, beautiful town, unesco rated, cobbled streets which are hard to walk on. We hadn't seen so many bus loads of tourists on the east of the island, now we are nearing Havana and Varerdero where most people visit. Got a simple room just out of town, it rained heavily in the afternoon but we rested then. Night time the plaza full of tourists on wifi. Lots of art work around which we haven't seen before. Might buy some small pieces. 12/4/17 Playa Giron After a morning walk around town with running shoes on as the streets so hard to walk in, including a climb on top of a museum with vistas over the old town. We caught a Viazul bus to Cienfuegos, and v quickly caught another bus to Playa Giron 1 1/2 hours away, but there were no seats left for us so we sat on the bus steps at the back. An old man from Germany gave me his sweat shirt to sit on which was nice and we talked all the way about our travels. Playa Giron was a small seaside town, not v appealing to the eye, but we knew where some of Svend's family were staying and got a room near by. By face book we knew 12 members or Thomas & Aases family were traveling for two weeks together and we arranged to surprise them with Jan & Anne Kirstine in the know, & telling us where they would be. Svend had heard them all walk to the beach so we went down there. Most were sitting under shade at a beach hut bar so we got a drink at the bar. We recognised Jan & him & Anne Kirtine were unsure when they saw us at the bar if it was us but they kept looking at us and we didn't show acknowledgement, so they were whispering a lot. We then saw Thomas & Aase lying on the beach and walked over putting svends towel 1cm away from hers on an empty beach, they were astounded a stranger would do that & muttered something like, he must really want to lie here, of course not knowing who we were, other family members were just looking with mouth wide open. Svend lay down & then said something to Aase revealing the whole thing, the others from the bar had been watching too and ran down. A v funny moment. We talked and realised two of the boys stayed in our house too. We had dinner together at the main house, something the owners rustled up at short notice but great food. Prawns, lobster, calamari, beef, rice, cake, salad, etc Cost 35cuc for us both with beers, coffee. 13/4/17 Playa Giron The Sorensen family had their own bus, driver & guide, so we went off to a simple resort for snorkelling, sun, all inclusive drinks and lunch 15 cud for the day. We had our own snorkels with us from Australia, the fish were ok but we have seen much better. Some of the family were sick so rested in the shade all day, others played volley ball etc. lots cocktails drunk. Back at the house I went for a long walk, svend chatted to family and washed clothes and when I got back he'd moved house as the unfriendly lady didn't like him washing clothes. Had pizza for dinner with non sick family. 14/4/17 Cienfuegos The Sorensen family members were getting more sick. At least 3 with vomiting and diarrhoea. After breakfast we farewelled everyone, visited the revolution museum commemorating the defeat over the Cuban exiles / USA backed arriving on the beach at Playa Giron & being stranded as Fidel knew they were coming. We watched a propaganda video. Then caught a bus back to Cienfuegos again no seats so sat on the step for 1 1/2 hours. At bus station found out buses booked out for a few days for Havana as its Easter but we are first on waiting list, or we take a share taxi. When looking for a room/ house Svend & I lost each other for two hours. A bit stressful as I had no money. Have a room in a lovely balconied apt but the people not v friendly. We had a long hot walk around town. Then a long sleep in the afternoon. Another walk in evening had dinner on a balcony at Italian restaurant with music playing and I fell off my chair into the band. Ice cream T Coppelias twice today but had to run home to toilet after the first visit. I've been sick lost my voice completely today, sore throat and a bit weary. 15/4/17 Cienfuegos Svend up early went for walk and changed money. After breakfast we decided to move & found a much friendlier place. Took a horse cart to Porta Gorda and had a lovely time exploring the beach side town. Saw a timber looking house being renovated then realised it was concrete made to look like timber. Had a look through the place. Lots of old colonial houses and hotels to look at. Took a bici taxi back to new Casa as it was very hot. Slept for a couple of hours then back out but it rained for awhile. Had ice cream at Coppelias again. Spent evening showing our new host photos from home & other trips. 16/4/17 Venailles A long, hot,hard day travelling via shared taxis with other travellers who couldn't get a bus out of town because of Easter break. First in an old lada to just outside Havana then waiting for the change taxi on the motorway. An old American long station wagon with 3 rows of seats and needed water a few times on the way. Dropped two travellers off at Las Terrazas where we had planned to go but it didn't really appeal 32 cuc all the way to Venailles then the driver said he hadn't been paid by the first driver, but he wasn't too angry about it so figured he was trying to pull one in us, Fun and games. I logged onto internet whilst svend found a room in the main st. then svend washed our clothes before we walked around the tourist inhabited village. Lots of horses, horse carts, bullock wagons & old American cars if course. I'm getting sick and lost my voice still, bad cough too, made worse by car fumes. Felt exhausted, had lobster pasta for dinner. 17/4/17 Venailles After breakfast we had a walk that we realised we were going in wrong direction but we got some info about going to a tabacco plantation, cave, coffee farm & lake. We decided to do it next day early as too hot in main part of day. We later walked out of town & saw caves that we could climb upto & walk all the way through to a view point, tourist horses treks, horses being shoes with a machete as the tool, limestone rocks being rock climbed, v hot so I rested and svend did the other walk late afternoon and it poured down on him, but he seemed to enjoy his trip, followed other tourists on horses & walking. Coming back with a cigar to smoke. I had a lobster for dinner presented nicely. 18/4/17 Venailles An early walk to the tabacco fields then breakfast then Svend did a big hike 15km to a freakish rock wall painting, getting back at a run just missing the big down pour of rain. I checked our emails and booked 4 lots groups into our holiday houses. I'm still coughing but think I'm getting better. Found some delicious pastries & cakes we keep buying from a facially deformed guy with a cart on the street corner. Back to pizza for dinner in Main Street ha ha 19/4/17 Pindar del rio Local bus for 28 km from venailles, found a lovely Casa, best yet,left our bags, walked out of town, caught cattle truck with people on board with 2 chickens in their bags, v crowded, then local bus with so many people crammed on board, then 11/2 km walk into the "best" cigar plantation in the world. Saw the plants, and a cigar being rolled, which Svend got then got a lift back in to town with the French couple on our tour who'd hired a car. Ice cream 5 types in a bowl waffle, best yet,on return the our Casa couldn't keep us unless we paid more money, so we left to not such a good place, probably worst yet on this trip. At dinner pizza again svend realised he'd lost his little wallet, with our internet cards and a little money, probably after another hit of ice cream as we walked down the street to our new place. He went back and searched but it's lost. 20/4/17 Havana I didn't feel great so didn't eat much breakfast, Svend had to buy some more internet cards, took a while at the Etecsa office. At bus station we got a ride on an old yellow school type minibus, not much suspension & the driver kept stopping to talk to the broken down cars but not much help otherwise. Back in Havana we left our packs at the bus station promising a tip to the office guard, then we went back to the Plaza of independence or Jose Marti memorial near by as we visited too late last time & couldn't see the museum, however we decided not to go in or climb to the top. Walked all the way to our previous Casaabout 3km with packs on. We have 3 nights until we fly out. After a rest we walked for km's around the old city into the evening, discovering old streets, La Bodega bar & a really lovely evening. Had a spaghetti at Nelys place just around the corner from us. 21/4/17 Havana By the end of the day we had walked 32km as I had my tracker running. A cooler day, threatened rain a few times but didn't happen, walked everywhere possible & then some. Harbour, plazas, old town, Saw 28 September Revolution museum, a little disappointing & simplistic. Had drinks at Hotel Inglaterra where Svend was accosted in the toilets & offered cigars but he could on,y buy 5 & wanted 1, so smoked one left over on the next table after we talked to a US Mexican & his Colombian wife, before they went to a show. 22/4/17 Havana Took an open top bus tour around the city & out into the suburbs, cost double what we had been quoted but still only 10cuc. Did a full loop, hot then rain threatened, bus kept stopping for long periods then we had to change, a little annoying as it took ages, at the last stop to the west we got off on the second round, took two local bus's 4km when the rain poured but fortunately we weren't far from Fusterlandia art studios and suburb, so took shelter then rain stopped & we were able to enjoy the crazy house of Jose Fuser ceramic tiles & whimsical art works covering his house, lanes, bus stops, etc A bit tricky to find our way back to the hop on bus but managed it with our Maps.me app on our phones & rain started again with a vengeance, no going out tonight as it really poured. Ended up having our best meal just around the corner st Nelys again, pizza and spaghetti after braving the rain, streets flooded, hadn't rained for a long time so streets full of all sorts floating around. 23/4/17 Cancun Mexico A bright hot morning, pottered around, went a few doors away to what looked like a derelict building but on top floor it was renovated to a flag restaurant La Guardia which bus loads of tourists had been flocking to. Great views over Havana, great photos I hope. Last breakfast & then a cab ride old Toyota to the airport. Easy check in, we had about 11 kg each. Posted 3 post cards to the boys and mum. Long delay in lounge, then an 1 1/2 hour wait on the Tarmac and then a short flight to Cancun. We rang Saul from our first Airbnb using a tour guides phone and she organised him to get us. We had a great reunion and he had a girlfriend Sandra with him, had cheese and bread, he cooked dinner for us, beef and chorizos, salad, drank beers and tequila, he wasn't renting at the moment but gave us a room. Nice to get internet too, news and emails. 24/4/17 Bacalar Svend went running 7.5km with Saul, I found a disturbing email from a guest who'd got to our holiday house and a party was in full swing so they left and went back to sydney, we've offered a full refund or 3 nights at the house of their choice. He was mainly upset as we hadn't answered his text messages but we don't get them & we weren't getting emails in Havana. Svend rang his brother and I rang mum. She told me about Kim's mums funeral, Janine missed it went late mums phone was off and sat in another funeral, oh dear. Sauls driver took us to the bus station in Cancun, we bought a ticket south then our money card didn't work wrong pin so svend trawled arrived town for a bank, arriving back just before the bus left Long bus trip, arrived late at night. 25/4/17 Bacalar Beautiful day, discovered areas Cenotes or sink holes. Cenote Azul inland just a swimming hole with restaurant. Walked in searing heat to lake side Cenotes spent afternoon enjoying beautiful water and scenery, swings in the water. 26/4/17 Caye Caulker Took bus from Bacalar to Chetumal, then taxi to local bus station that took us all the way to Belize city over the border crossing. One girl had thrown away her immigration visa and nearly couldn't leave ethe country as she couldn't find her entry stamp, svend found it in her passport and then she was allowed to pass over the border. Walked to the ferry in extreme heat boat paver to Caye Caulker and got a a slightly dingy room $25us but most booked out, room ok separate bathroom awful. Island more crowded and built than we had expected, v hot, lots oaf restaurants but pricey we think at $25belize makes meals about $15 aud Found happy hour drinks, last one in a reggae a bar with swings, really funky. 27/4/17 Caye Caulker Had an amazing day on a snorkelling trip just a few minutes off the island on a trip, 3 lots of 40 minutes at different places. $30usd Best part was snorkelling with the bull sharks and stingrays, so many you couldn't count them. Also saw seahorses and barracuda. Svend didn't want to go, but he really missed out on a highlight. Ate conch ceviche at dinner, feel a little guilty as it's form those amazing shells, had to try it though as it's an island speciality when lobster is out of season. In afternoon hung out at split end where svend played volleyball with the staff and locals. Enjoyed a karaoke night with the young people singing songs from the 80's, ands music I grew up with, they knew all the words and chose the songs them selves. I found a phone in the toilets and handed it into the bar. 28/4/17 Hopkins Cinnamon buns for breakkie form me, seems to be a country speciality. Headed off to go south abut svend discovered could have gone snorkelling at The Blue Hole, hadn't a really looked into it and a father leaving the island he regretted not doting it. Took a long a long time to get to HopKins beach village and ended up at funky dodos hostel with a funny ramshackle bed on blocks of wood and concrete blocks. Good music played at bar next door with the areas speciality drumming on show. V hot, nearly unbearable. Beach not too great, lots rubbish and seaweed. Had fish burgers for dinner, really good. 29/4/17 San Ignacio After a morning walk we decided to leave, had to hitch out of town, first ride with American couple, then a German couple who took us to a bakery fro cinnamon buns, run by The Mennonites, a conservative religion looking like a cult, girls dressed in head scarves and old fashioned dresses, it they apparently produce most of Belizes food.We were dropped at a water hole where talked to some young people volunteering. With the US peace corp. We hitched a lift again to some caves that were dark and we needed as flash light. After leaving we had a hard time getting a bus as they were full due to the Belize show in Belmopan. The cave guide called his friend to take us but when he arrived he wanted way more money than we'd been told. So we hitched again and got a lift on a ute sitting on corn with a family of five on the back too. he took us to the shows where we left our packs at the ticket booth entrance. Spent the afternoon eating and drinking local show delights. Saw Rastafarian cowboys, Amish familys in their strange clothes, cattle, etc. temp still v hot, it's nearly killing me, high humidity. Got a local but to San Ignacio arriving late evening, svend found a nice little hotel and he organised to go on a caving tour tomorrow. ATM cave trip. Ate at a local cafe, had great fish dinner band svend had prawns.talked to the owner about the Mennonite s, learned a a little more absolute them. 30/4/17 San Ignacio Svend up and out early on his trip, I walked around a little but it was roof hot so spent the day under the fan in our room, svend came back at 4pm had a good trip, saw caves, walked in water, crossed rivers, saw skeletons, heard absolute the Mayan sacrifices. Had some Chinese food was quiet good and beers and nibbles on our balcony. 1/5/17 Flores Guatemala Took a bus en route to the border but. Jumped off when we saw the sign for the ruins of Xunantunich, Left our packs with a souvenir stall and, crossed the river on a ferry hand pulled,hitched a lift to the ruins, saw Howler monkeys in the trees and wandered around the pretty impressive ruins. A taxi picked us up on way back and took us to the border of Guatemala, paid $20 us departure tax and walked across the border, got a minibus to Flores, money from the ATM using our travel card instead of cash, found a small place on Flores island, ate at the night market with fiesta food, tacos, cake, juice, v cheap. Then rain Downpour came and we had to run home. We booked a tour to Tikal with Avon early start. At a first e thought we should have stayed at Tikal but it turned out accomodation was expensive and only 3 places so did the right thing coming to Flores as it is a nice place with A nice feel. 2/5/17 Flores Guatemala Very hot night,I've taken to having showers at night and during the night, wetting my shirt and letting it dry on my body with the fan, it doesn't take long, but it helps me to sleep. Up 4 am then met the shuttle outside our hotel. Slept and arrived 6am our minibus was the first at the gates and got our tickets first , had a great guide, saw the ruins, pretty spectacular ruins in a jungle setting, some untouched, others partially restored, some more restored,but by 10.30 the heat was too much and we all caught the minibus back to Flores and enjoyed the hot afternoon there. I had thought we could swim there but there wasn't a good place that wasn't slippy, or dirty from the rain last night. Z Ate at the market again, booked a bus to Lanquin for tomorrow 8am, had a beer at the skybar overlooking the lake at night. 3/5/17 Semuc champey el portal A long mini bus ride from 8am to 6 pm crossing a river where trucks had to jerk forward on it to move the ferry.we were on the front seats but one of them was very hard so it was tough even though it looked like we had the best spot in the bus. The last 12km took over an hour with our slow driver over the bad road. On arrival in Lanquin, we thought we would stay at El Retiro on the river so when svend had checked I talked to another tout who convinced me to take another pickup truck to a place 12 km way but next to the attractions we wanted to see. A bumpy stand up drive in the dark but on arrival we realised we had done the right thing. We got a tree top house in a palm frond bungalow, the setting on the river was great and we are just 25m from the national park entrance. We talked late to a German couple were very interested in our Central Asia trip. 4/5/17 El Retiro Lanquin I couldn't wait to wake up early and see our beautiful surroundings. They didn't disappoint, then we walked into the park at 6.30am before it opened at 8am. We walked along steep steps to a lookout Then into the rock pools before the tour groups arrived from Lanquin. Met a Danish family driving around Central America with 3 kids and spent tine morning sort of with them. A hung out at hotel until we did the water cave tour, only us on the tour. Into a black cave system with deep water all the time, sometimes swimming but mostly walking, carrying a candle in one hand. Awesome experience, challenges all your senses, climbed a rope over a small waterfall In the cave. Took about an hour but on the walk back I a really relaxed and looked around and got used to the candle light and looked at the cave formations. Afterwards we swam and floated in the river on the current. Then svend and the German guy Stefan decided to jump off the bridge about 10m. Jenna also did it but I wasn't game. At 5pm we got a stand up truck back to town to ,El Retiro on the river, nice Cabana,found dinner eventually in town just a simple nachos, then hung out at the common area with wifi, listening to some stupid Brits talking about living on the dole and politics. 5/5/17 El Retiro Lanquin It rained all night but dry in morning, temps not as hot as in Belize. Had organised a tubing trip with a young guy yesterday and he was waiting for us at 9am. We, floated down the river for just over an hour which walk very relaxing but I'm not sure good for the back or posture. However a great way to start the day. Spent the day relaxing in hammocks and catching up with internet news. Especially on Anja Nissen representing Denmark in Eurovision next week. It rained at night and we just managed to get dinner at the restaurant opposite our lodge. Booked minibus to Antigua for 6am tomorrow. 6/5/17 Antigua Hostal imperial Long trip but in comfortable minibus. Slow through Guatemala City, seemed polluted and lots cars. It's not on our plans to go to. Found a simple room with other backpackers who are v friendly. Svends toilet bag went missing on our journey here so he's been following it up with bus co and last hostal, but not found. Annoying, he saw his pack was open when he got off the minibus but thought nothing of it. Checked out the market lots of Guatemalan handicrafts, svends not keen on. Found a supermarket too so bought avocados to make guacamole, yum. Pretty cold evening temp drop from Belize, but quite welcome as it was unbearable. 7/5/17 Antigua Hostal imperial Svends birthday 61 years. Nice fruit and yogurt breakfast. Checked out the town, walked to the cross lookout, saw 3 volcanos surrounding the city. Booked svend on an overnight volcano hike tomorrow. We are deciding whether to go to El Salvador or just spend more time in Guatemala and Mexico. 8/5/17 Antigua Hostal imperial I had stomach cramps in morning so had slow day after svend left for his hike. Looks spectacular but I still wasn't tempted. Didn't feel great but still wandered through the food market, city, cobbled streets, indigenous Guatemalans selling handicrafts, people watching, but low key day. Talked to lots of travellers, nice to hear about other places to visit. 9/5/17 Antigua Hostal imperial Felt bit better today, researched El Salvador and hope we can go. Walked around early, svend back at 1pm thinking we were off to Lake Atiltan but we decided to go to El Salvador by local bus, the minibus shuttles just transport backpackers from door to door, gets a bit production line without interacting with the local people. We are told not to take the chicken buses and it will take a few changes but should be ok. Svends Acetango volcano hike was tough, 21 people on it so some slow. Hard walking in volcanic rocks, cold at night, camped on the ridge, woken at 3.30am to walk another 700m up for sunrise and see mt fuego erupt opposite. He was glad I didn't go, wasn't something I'd enjoy. Market visit, bought veggies and cooked ratatouille for dinner, took a last walk at night around the city, nice McDonalds with nice garden. I started feeling cramps again, restless night. 10/5/17 Ataca El Salvador Villa Ikal Hostal A great day, up early, then local chicken bus into Guatemala City, no one standing so quite comfortable, people get on to sell food, or to preach some bible readings, music blasts all the time, fun. Short taxi ride to next chicken bus, we thought it was longer and had agreed too much, but we got on next bus straight away. Misunderstood where to get off but ended up nearer the border than we'd expected, so good, then a minibus right to the Las Chimanas border. Walked across a bridge, found the immigration under a tree on two stools, didn't have a stamp for the passport, looked ours over then sent us on our way. Up the hill caught a bus cost 50cents, then another 40c to Ataco. Nice little hotel, laid back village, no travellers that we could see anywhere, colourful murals, cheap food, currency is US dollars, great feel to it. Ate popusas for dinner at cafe, the it rained heavily. 11/5/17 Ataca El Salvador Villa Ikal Hostal A day traveling around the Rutas de Flores, visited towns of Juayua, lonely walk to a waterfall, felt quite vulnerable. Got a lift back on the back of a ute standing, then another bus to Nahuizalco a small indigenous village where we bought hot chips. All the villages are highly decorated with murals. Ended up in Sonsonate where svend had his leather pouch fixed and we had some dubious feelings about people in the park. Cooked in the kitchen at night. I bought a red fleece in a second hand clothing store. Walked the street after 8pm but it was deathly quite at that time. had some ruins but we decided not to visit them. Anja made it to grand final in Eurovision we are so excited for her. Will be on Saturday. 12/5/17 Santa Ana El Salvador Woke at 4.41am to an earthquake happening. 3 lots of tremors then we went back to sleep. Checked internet later in the day and it was correct 6.2 on Richter scale. 80km off the coast. Crazy feeling with everything trembling under you. I've still been having stomach problems. that time. Had a stop in a town that had some ruins but we decided not to go into them. But svend had his hair cut and beard trimmed and we left our bags at the shop whilst we checked out the ruins. I'm embarrassed to say I left their toilet in a terrible state as I found out later there wasn't any water to flush with. A few buses later we ended at Santa Ana svend found a hotel a little out of the main town and were left our bags at the theatre but just as we were heading to our place I spotted a hotel on the square that was adequate as I was feeling terrible. We made nachos and quacamole for dinner. Saw the amazing cathedral being renovated, saw a dance off competition in the square, had drinks and listened to a live band in a bar next to the cathedral. 13/5/17 Suchitoto A long day traveling through San Salvador on chicken buses and had to stand up on the last one packed bus for 2hours. I've been bitten on my left hand fingers. Really stinging. At suchitoto we checked in and the spent next few hours watching Eurovision, in Kiev. Anja was amazing but the voting was disappointing and she came about 20 after viewers votes. Portugal won. But it's been a great journey. One day she will be a big star just taking a long time we feel. Small village walked around and had puposas in village square talking to an english couple. 14/5/17 El Tunco beach El Salvador. Walked to lake but not nice once there, decided to leave and go south to the beaches. Lots of buses and through San Salvador again but as it was Sunday, traffic was light. 15/5/17 Los Cobanos beach El Salvador 16/5/17 Santiago de Laguna Lake Atitlan Guatemala 17/5/17 San Pedro de Laguna Guatemala 18/5/17 San Pedro de Laguna Guatemala Chichicastenango market 19/5/17 San Pedro de Laguna Guatemala San Marcos. Trivia night at hostel pub. 20/5/17 San Cristobal de las casa Mexico Border crossing 8 buses. Wrong way initially. 21/5/17 San Cristobal de las casa Mexico Up early, changed hotel to a more central hostalChecked out town, booked 3 tours and bus to Puerto Escondido. Lovely feel to the old colonial town, nice food, cheap tours, Walked up town steps to church overlooking town.nice plaza with cathedral and music playing. Ate at street food market at lunch time, then nice pizza at night. Svend then had to find a place to book the tours as we'd left it a bit late. Put in 3kg of clothes for washing. $3. 22/5/17 San Cristobal de las casa Mexico 8am bus tour to waterfalls and lakes. Really beautiful turquoise rock pools! Ending in an enormous waterfall. ChefLon. Then we zip lined over the canyon. Great fun. On return the road was blockaded by protesters 37km from hotel so we had to abandon the minibus, walk 2km in dark past the standstill traffic, past the protestors and hitch to next town, then take another minibus sitting on the floor. Home 10pm, I cooked spaghetti and tomato paste ate it with bread. So tasty. Bomb attack at a music concert in Manchester. 22 young girls killed 60 injured suicide nail bomb. So horrible. 23/5/17 San Cristobal de las casa Mexico 4am start to a long day on the bus, more waterfalls, rock pools and then the ancient ruins of Palenque. It was really hot. Got back 10.30pm. Again cooked spaghetti after we got back. 24/5/17 Another tour but started 9am so it felt like a lie in. Saw an amazing canyon on a speed boat trip for two hours. Saw crocodiles, monkeys and birds. 1000m high walls. Went to a market town for an hour. Then on return at 3pm it poured with rain. So we couldn't do more sightseeing in town as planned. Svend cooked eggs and Tomato then caught overnight bus to the coast.
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